MEXICO Articles Guanajuato

TRAVERSING GUANAJUATO

Hidden amidst hills, the beautiful city of Guanajuato emerges with its colorful and typical architecture, surrounded by green slopes that man has occupied through constructions in levels, following the curve of the hills.
                                                                                 
By Miriam Cuevas

Guanajuato panoramic view
Guanajuato's view from El Pipila monument

Proclaimed Patrimony of Mankind by UNESCO, Guanajuato is a city with history, where each of its streets has a special meaning, and traversing them is a real joy.

The origin of the name comes from the word 'Quanashuato', that in native Tarasco language means place plenty of frogs. Rich in minerals, specially gold and silver, Guanajuato was during the viceroyalty a prosperous mining zone, and one of the most important silver producers of the world. A great part of its beautiful constructions were built by mining families, which got great fortunes from mining. Nowadays, this activity has decreased, being then several mines that can be visited, and are part of the tourist trip.

The entrance to Guanajuato is paved with stones; however, the most surprising aspect of the city is its fabulous tunnels. Being the first one built at the end of the XIX century, its purpose was channeling the waters coming from the river San Nicolás, which flooded the city every year. However, after the building of this first tunnel, it was necessary to build two more, but this time to relieve the traffic congestion and prevent traffic jams. In this way, the solution to the traffic jam was obtained without intervening the typical streets of this city.

University of Guanajuato and Cervantes Festival

University of Guanajuato

University of Guananuato, a former hospital and school from de XVIII century

Seat of the University of Guanajuato, the city owns it a great part of its artistic and cultural tradition. Every year, in October, the known Cervantes Festival is held, honoring the famous writer Miguel de Cervantes, and summoning a selection of national and international cultural and artistic activities. Expositions are carried out, plays and concerts are presented, and cinematographic shows are organized, as a lot of different types of events, turning the city into a spring of culture. Visitors from all over Mexico go to this festival, especially young people who want to expose themselves to art, have fun and make friends from other states of the country. Streets are filled with life and happiness. After a while, it is impossible not to stop to listen to the music of a lonely violin player, or follow the student musical groups, so common in the city, who walk along the streets offering their music. Perhaps the most valuable aspect of the festival is the fact that many of its activities are free. There are so many artists coming to learn from others and teach at the same time their art that it is possible to enjoy a small spectacle in any corner of the city.

In the architectonic aspect, Guanajuato, apart from being a city of great beauty and joy, has multiple architecture jewels. One of them is the University of Guanajuato, located on a hill; you get there through a long and wide stair. This ivory building has turned into one of the most representative symbols of the city, and it stands majestic dominating part of it. On a side, we find the pink baroque temple of the Company of Jesus, the biggest in Guanajuato, with an impressive dome from the XIX century.

Walking a block to the west of the University, is the Museum 'Casa Diego Rivera', where the famous muralist was born in 1886. Inside it there is a collection of paintings of the artist.



'La Paz' Square and 'la Unión' Garden

La Paz square
La Paz square and Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato Basilica

Along 'Juárez' Avenue, the main of the city, and after a small bend, we bump into the precious 'DE LA Paz' Square. With a pointed shape, it represents the division of two streets. Next to this is one of the most interesting colonial constructions of Guanajuato, the building of the Supreme Courthouse, from the XVIII century, former house of the Counts of Rul and Valencia. In the back part of this small square we find the impressive basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato, of strong colors, which keeps the image of the Saint Patroness of the city. The Municipal Palace is in front of the basilica. However, perhaps the funniest aspect of the 'de la Paz' Square is the cafés and restaurants located on one of its sides. Nothing nicer than having a coffee in the outer tables watching the tranquility of the city life.

Going down the street you get to the main square of Guanajuato, 'la Unión' garden. A small place, with a singular shape, with leafy trees and surrounded by interesting constructions. The 'Juárez' theater catches your eye, with its lions at the stairs and Greek columns, crowned with sculptures, of European style. Its inside is what surprises you most. Finely decorated, stained glass ceilings and its French style. This theater dates back from 1903, and it was inaugurated by Porfirio Díaz, the governor who lasted longer in office in Mexico. Following along the theater street to the east of the city, we find the Iconographic Museum of Don Quixote, created honoring the famous character, which presents a collection of artistic objects related to the figure created by Miguel de Cervantes. The variety of works it has, many of them of little value, is interesting, as some others from important painters, such as Picasso and Dalí.

 

Lane of the Kiss and 'Pípila'

Lane of the Kiss (Callejón del beso)
Lane of the Kiss tourists waiting for the traditional picture.

Going down from the west by ‘Juárez’ avenue, one of the first attractions catching our eye is the market ‘Hidalgo’.Although it is a bit messy, it offers countless souvenirs and crafts related to the city, along with sweets and typical foods.

A bit further, we find the ‘Ropero’ square, with a fountain in the middle of it, and small and narrow streets coming out from it.One of those sidewalks, facing the hill, is the one taking to the famous Lane of the Kiss, a narrow and hidden corner with room for only two people.Legend says that two lovers lived just in front of each other, and to kiss each other secretly, because it was a forbidden love, they just opened the windows and their lips met in the air. From that moment on, the place became the lane of the kiss, an unavoidable place to visit just for curiosity or romanticism.

   When going out of the lane, the majestic monument of the ‘Pípila’ is in front of us.A huge and pink statue, on one of the hills, seeming to enliven the city at its feet with its struggling look.The sight from there is wonderful, because it allows beholding most of Guanajuato’s attractions.Besides, the ‘Pípila’ has an inner stairway that allows the visitor to get to the top of it.The history of the monument starts at the independence war, when the ‘Alhondiga de Granaditas’, an old granary, was used as fortress by the Spanish, who were hidden and protected in the place, until a miner nicknamed ‘Pípila’, with a flat stone over his back, approached the building and set its door on fire, allowing the independence soldiers enter the place.

 

The Mummies and 'San Gabriel' Hacienda

Guanajuato is also famous by its mummies. Discovered in 1865, when operations to enhance the city cemetery began. The combination of a soil rich in minerals and a pretty dry air, they concluded that Guanajuato's soil was capable to mummify a corpse in only five years.
Nowadays the Museum of the Mummies exhibits these grotesque bodies rescued from that old cemetery.
Along the same road leading to the mountains, which is also the exit of the city to go to Mexico City, is 'San Gabriel Barrera' Hacienda, dating back from the XVII century, and although it is not totally authentic, it tries to offer an idea of the wealth enjoyed by the rich families of Guanajuato during the viceroyalty.

 

View from University of Guanajuato

Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato Basilica

El Pipkla hill as background

Guanajuato entrance

Santa Cecilia's castle

San Diego's temple

Juarez's Theater

El Pipila monument

Hospitals temple

Union garden

 

Text & Photos Miriam Cuevas

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